Chauen’s blue magic and the medieval labyrinth of Fez

Chauen’s blue magic and the medieval labyrinth of Fez

We suggest a trip to two of the most magical spot in the north of Africa. Chauen with its rural otherworldly charm, and Fez with its splendour and history rooted in the most glorious era of the Alaouite dynasty.

We begin our Moroccan adventure in Chauen, also known as Chefchauen, El Ayoun or even Xauen. A small town set in the northwest of the country, in the foothills of the Rif Mountains just inland from Tetouan. We could say it’s between Tangier, Tetouan, and Al Hoceima.

Chaouen’s beauty lies in strolling its narrow, winding streets and surrending to the pace of life in the town and letting the time pass you by as you admire the intense blue colour of its magical streets. Rest assured, the friendly locals will remind you of at the drop of a hat that “hurry kills my friend, hurry kills”.

A visit to Chauen is an explosion for the senses, full of aromas, flavours and colour. It’s difficult to visit all the town, but the Medina is a must, along with Plaza Hammam, the Grande Mosque, the Kasbah and the town’s picturesque wash-houses.

Another interesting spot to wander around is the caravanserai that today is filled with small shops and stands selling Moroccan crafts. Remember, you’ll be expected to haggle if you’re buying rugs, iron craftwork or the unique leather products with their intense smell.

About 200km south of Chauen (about a three-hour journey on Moroccan roads) is the imposing Fez, one of the four so-called imperial cities along with Marrakesh, Meknes and Rabat.

Fez is the third most important city in Morocco after Casablanca and Rabat. It’s also considered the country’s principal religious and cultural centre as it’s home to the oldest centres of Arab and Islamic university studies in the world.

However, without a doubt, the big attraction is the medina. Fez el Bali is believed to be the biggest pedestrian area in the world and was listed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site in 1981. The city is a medieval labyrinth that will transport you back in time. The Chouwara tannery in the heart of the medina is well worth a visit. A breathtaking spectacle, full of pits filled with natural dyes for colouring lamb, goat, ox and camel skins. But be warned, the smell is nauseating and you won’t be able to get it out of your head for days after.

Fez el-Jdid (the new city) is also an interesting place to visit. Built during the French colony, it is home to the Mellah, or Jewish Quarter and the Ville Nouvelle.

We also recommend visiting Volubilis, the best preserved Roman city in Morocco. It’s just an hour’s drive from Fez, north of the neighbouring city of Meknes (well-known for its winemaking tradition) in the Zerihun Mountains. Make sure to bring your camera as the views are spectacular with the vineyards in the background.